Cabrières d’Aigues

The village and its Waldensian history

From 1442 onwards, the village came under the authority of the lord of La Tour d’Aigues. At the time of the great plague (1350–1390), the loss of life was so severe that the villages were abandoned.

After a long period without inhabitants, around 1450, the lord Raymond d’Agoult sought to repopulate them. The challenge was to find people willing to bring the land back into cultivation, so he naturally turned to workers from the Alps. These Waldensians followed the teachings of Valdès, a Lyonnais merchant who, in the 12th century, gave his fortune to the poor and chose to live as they did, spreading the good word. The principles of the Waldensian movement were humility, sharing, non-violence, and poverty.

The village is therefore one of around forty places, on both sides of the Luberon, where at least 1,400 Waldensian families from the Alps settled, amounting to around 6,000 people. Two-thirds of these Waldensians of the Luberon arrived between 1490 and 1520. In Cabrières-d’Aigues, the 80 families who settled there in 1495 all came from the Freissinières valley, where a crusade had taken place seven years earlier against these people, who were considered heretics.

In 1532, the Waldensians embraced the Protestant Reformation. But they then fall victim to persecution led by the infamous inquisitor Jean de Roma and by the first president of the Parliament of Aix, Jean Meynier, Baron of Oppède. The “Mérindol decree” of 1540, signed by King Francis I, ordered the destruction of the village of Mérindol. It was enforced in April 1545: Mérindol and Cabrières d’Avignon (another village located in papal territory) were destroyed, and the devastation spread throughout the Luberon, claiming more than 2,000 victims. 700 Waldensians were even sent to the galleys in the port of Marseille. This massacre of the Waldensians of the Luberon left a lasting mark on the region.

Cabrières d’Aigues was set on fire from the outset by royal troops under the command of Capitaine Polin de La Garde. The survivors sought refuge in the forests and caves of the Luberon and were able, much later, to return to the village and rebuild their homes. Others took refuge in Geneva.

Despite the Wars of Religion (1560–1598), the spirit of the Reformation endured, and in 1682, the village’s Protestant population was recorded at 600. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, families from Cabrières d’Aigues set out into exile towards Germany and the Netherlands. Some even continued their journey as far as the Cape and settled in South Africa.

Sights and Heritage

The Bas-Relief of Cabrières d’Aigues

Discovered in the early 19th century by a farmer and brought to light by a notary with a passion for archaeology, the bas-relief of Cabrières d’Aigues is now held at the Musée Calvet in Avignon. A copy of this bas-relief is available at the Cabrières d’Aigues town hall and at the Tourist Office reception in La Tour d’Aigues. It sheds further light on what was already known about trade on the Durance River in ancient times: the Durance River was not only used for downstream navigation, but also for travelling upstream. For a long time, it was believed that this scene came from a funerary stone adorning the mausoleum of a wine merchant. However, recent research suggests that it was actually a ‘trade sign’. The only dating clue lies in the analysis of these amphorae, attributed to the 2nd century AD.

Saint-Laurent Church

The church, which dates back to the 16th century, was originally an olive oil mill. During its restoration in 1974, it was reduced in size to create more space on the Place de l’Ormeau. During the renovation, a plaque dated 1191 was discovered. At the time, the local people believed it was the date of the renovation, and the plaque was placed on the wall inside the church. It was only later that it was discovered the plaque had been read the wrong way round and that the church did, in fact, date from the 17th century: when read correctly, the inscription states 1611. Explore the interior of the church and its troglodyte choir.

The Protestant Temple and its Memorial Stone

This is a Protestant temple (the Waldensians later joined the Protestant movement). On the side of the temple stands a particularly interesting and symbolic memorial stone: the base is made from Luberon stone, while the stone crowning it comes from the Alps. As the Waldensians came from the Briançonnais, we can see this as the stone from the Luberon welcoming the Waldensian stone. This is a tribute to the Waldensian people, also reflected in the three dates inscribed on the temple wall:

• 10 March 1495: arrival of the Waldensians in the town
• 16 April 1545: massacre of the Waldensians
• 29 April 1995: tribute paid to the Wladensians with this sculpture

The Geology Trail

Cabrières d’Aigues is an ideal place to discover geology! To the north of the village, you will find the local geology trail. This trail was created to answer a few simple questions and offer you helpful advice: what is this rock? When and how did it form? What is the origin of the landscapes? Here, hikers can travel through millions of years, from the ocean of the Secondary Era that gave rise to the Grand Luberon limestone, to the use of these very stones by humans in the nineteenth century. A wonderful experience, perfect for walkers and families with children eager to learn more about these fascinating eras!

What to do in Cabrières-d’Aigues

A tip: if you’re passing through Cabrières d’Aigues, be sure to visit the Point Fusion pottery studio, an artisan ceramics studio run by Philippe and Sylvie Duriez. Since 1995, they have been inviting you to discover their exhibition featuring collections of drawings, engravings, traditional pottery, handmade ceramics, sculptures and porcelain pieces. A vibrant spot, perfect for a family getaway, whether with children or without!

For sports and relaxation, the village is the starting point for ascending the Grand Luberon mountain, heading towards its summit, Mourre Nègre, via the GR92. Breathtaking views await you at the summit!

Anglers with a fishing permit can also enjoy themselves at the Étang de la Bonde. The site will delight visitors with its beauty and tranquillity. It is also the place to be for swimming in South Luberon! Its banks have been developed over a stretch of around one hundred metres, offering grassy areas for lounging as well as places to eat. And in summer, the lake water reaches 25°C, perfect for swimming! A magical place for family fun with the children.

Producers’ market and local flavours

The Ormeau bar and restaurant opens onto a charming Provençal setting, preserving its timeless spirit and the authenticity of the Luberon villages. In a friendly atmosphere, you can enjoy a drink or a meal on the shaded terraces beneath a beautiful arbour, from springtime and on warm summer evenings.

By the water’s edge, the Étang de la Bonde snack bar serves grilled meats, salads, savoury tarts and pizzas. You can enjoy the tranquillity and coolness of the evenings by the lake, with family or friends. The refreshment bar will also offer you fine wines from the vineyards of the Luberon.

You can also sample the wines of Temps des Sages, one of the smallest cooperative wineries in the Luberon. A welcoming place renowned for excellence and sound advice, the Temps des Sages wine cellar invites you to taste its finest wines, often acclaimed for their quality in various competitions and specialist guides.

Top 6 things to do in Cabrières-d’Aigues

1. Stroll through the village’s charming streets
2. Discover the château staircase
3. Hike the geological trail north of Rue Cime de Vière
4. Admire beautiful ceramics at Point Fusion Poterie
5. Enjoy quality wines at Le Temps des Sages
6. Cool off at Étang de la Bonde, just a few kilometres from the village