Where to find Truffles in the Sud Luberon?

What is a Truffle?

A truffle is an underground fungus, invisible from the surface. It is said to be hypogeous, meaning that it lives below ground, and saprophytic, meaning that it feeds on the decomposition of organic plant matter. But that is not all. Truffles do not grow just anywhere: they grow at the base of certain oak trees whose roots are mycorrhizal. The oak tree lives in symbiosis with the fungus. The tree provides the fungus with carbohydrates, and in return, the fungus supplies the tree with mineral nutrients.

Like other crops, truffle farming depends on weather conditions. But unlike other crops that are planted, truffles themselves are not “planted”: truffle growers plant a truffle tree, which may produce truffles several years after being planted. It generally takes between ten and fifteen years to harvest the first high-quality truffles, usually less if the trees are irrigated.

In the Luberon, two varieties of truffle are cultivated. The finest, the most flavourful, and also the most expensive is the black truffle, or Tuber melanosporum. The other variety is the summer white truffle, which is more subtle and delicate, also known as Tuber aestivum. Winter truffles have a more powerful aroma than summer truffles.

As for the black truffle, as its name suggests, both its outer skin and flesh are black, the latter streaked with fine white veins. Its shape is irregular, and its size can vary from that of a small walnut to that of a large ball.

When and How Are Truffles Harvested?

“La rabasse”, the Provençal name for the truffle, is harvested from late November to March, hence its name “winter truffle”. The summer white truffle is harvested from May to August, or even September if rainfall has been generous. Both varieties grow in the same truffle orchards.

In the Sud Luberon, in Cucuron, Benjamin Maurizot cultivates truffles with passion. His land offers ideal geological and mineral conditions for growing them. Patiently, he tends his plots to ensure they produce the best possible results. But truffles are not his only speciality: he also grows lavandin organically, extracting its essential oil after distillation. His wife, Virginie, manages the aromatherapy side of the business from their beautiful on-site shop.

The search for black truffles is called cavage. In the past, it was carried out with muzzled pigs, which sniffed out the precious black diamonds. Today, they have been replaced by dogs, which are more reliable, more enduring, and more mobile than pigs. In the Luberon, as elsewhere in Provence, while pigs are no longer used to search for truffles, their wild cousins, wild boars, have no hesitation in digging up the soil in search of their favourite treats. Truffle growers sometimes even put up electric fences to protect themselves from these unwelcome intruders.

Benjamin’s dogs are called Lady and Péki. Like true truffle dogs, they circle the oak trees, their noses alert. Suddenly, they begin scratching at the surface of the soil. They have just marked the location of a truffle. In a firm voice, Benjamin orders them to stop, and the dogs obey. It is impressive: the dogs are perfectly trained and disciplined. Without them, Benjamin’s work would be much more complicated.

Truffle farming is all about symbiosis: between the oak tree and the truffle, and between the master and his dogs. Lady and Péki let their master smell the earth, scented with truffle, to check that it is indeed there, somewhere buried beneath his feet. He then carefully works around it, gently freeing it from its natural setting.

Where to find Provence Truffles?

Thanks to their expertise and first-hand experience in the field, these producers and restaurateurs have established themselves in the world of truffles. Be sure to contact them to find the finest Provence truffles.

How to choose a good Truffle?

Not all truffles are necessarily of good quality, so to make sure, Benjamin takes out his small knife and makes a tiny incision to check the flesh. The truffle should be firm; if it is soft, it will not be of good quality. Its flesh should be black, streaked with white veins.

At this stage of the harvest, Benjamin is uncompromising. If the truffle does not meet all the criteria for tasting, it will go back into the soil, allowing the tree to produce truffles again the following year. Otherwise, Benjamin may give a few pieces to Lady and Péki as a reward. There is no such thing as a bad truffle — the less suitable ones are simply investments for the future…

How to enjoy Truffles?

“La melano” can be enjoyed in several ways, but it should not be cooked. Chefs often say that 20 g of truffle is enough to experience true happiness. Its aroma is so intense that simply leaving it in contact with other foods is enough for them to absorb its flavour.

For example, Benjamin recommends placing it in the refrigerator for several days in a sealed container, such as Tupperware, together with eggs, so that they take on the wonderful taste of truffle. The resulting omelettes seem almost out of this world…

What to drink with Black Truffle?

Avec la truffe, on choisira plutôt des vins matures, afin de répondre à la puissance aromatique du champignon. Le vin doit soutenir et transcender les arômes de la truffe, mais surtout ne pas l’écraser. La truffe noire se marie avec bien des mets différents, et bien sûr, l’accord avec le vin dépendra de ces derniers. Les vins du Luberon sont parfaits pour satisfaire ces différents accords. Avec une viande rouge, ou lorsque la truffe est consommée pour elle-même, on choisira un vin rouge sec évolué élégant et plutôt boisé si possible, dont les tanins la mettront bien en valeur. Avec une viande blanche, des œufs ou un poisson, on choisira un grand vin blanc avec du corps, très évolué, charpenté et parfois même gras pour résister à la richesse de la truffe. Bonne dégustation !