Nestled in the heart of Provence, the Luberon promises a complete change of scenery, where garrigue, olive groves and vineyards meet. A Regional Nature Park since 1977, the Luberon displays a rich palette of colours even in the low season, when the Mistral picks up and the blue of the sky meets the green of the olive trees. Add to this the honey-coloured walls of the region’s picturesque villages, and you have a masterpiece: the Luberon in winter.
The picturesque villages of South Luberon under the spell of winter
The Luberon would not be the Luberon without its charming hilltop villages, even in winter. You come across them by chance as you wander, whether on foot, by car, or by bike. As you wander through their narrow cobbled lanes, sheltered from the Mistral, you catch the comforting scent of wood fires.
We recommend visiting must-see villages such as Ansouis, Cadenet, Cucuron, Grambois, as well as Mirabeau and La Tour d’Aigues. Around the fountains, in the picturesque, narrow and winding streets, and on the village squares, each one stands out for its heritage curiosities and unique architecture. The châteaux, all closed during the winter season except for the Château de Lourmarin, shape the landscape and offer a glimpse of what the Luberon was like through the centuries. You can explore them on foot, leaving your car in the car parks, or even by bike if you feel like it.
After your exertions, it’s time to relax and unwind! After your visit, there’s nothing better than stepping into a restaurant to warm up and savour delicious local dishes. In South Luberon, you’ll find a wide selection of restaurants, from Michelin-starred establishments to more modest venues. You’ll also find some real gems here, where you can experience the local art of living and gastronomy at truly affordable prices.
For example, at the restaurant Ô Mirail, chef Yoann Rigaud is at the helm, ready to bring you the very best of Provence on your plate. The Auberge des Tilleuls is a restaurant located at the foot of the hilltop village of Grambois. The cuisine here is both generous and refined, evolving with the seasons. If you find yourself near Cadenet, savour traditional dishes at the restaurant Le Dix’Vin. In an old family building transformed into a restaurant, Céline and Laurent, a couple of restaurateurs, welcome you and offer refined cuisine in a cosy, welcoming setting.
Savour the black truffle from Provence
Luberon in winter is also best enjoyed through its cuisine. It’s the season for ‘la rabasse’, the Provençal name for the black truffle. The truffle is a speciality of the Vaucluse, the largest producer in France, with a significant portion growing beneath the soil of the Luberon.
If you’re unable to cook it yourself, several local restaurants offer it in delicious ways, such as La Terrasse d’Olivier in La Bastidonne, or Le Diamant Noir in La Tour d’Aigues. Ideally, it should be enjoyed fresh, recently unearthed from the ground.
If you have the opportunity, we recommend attending a truffle hunting session. This is when truffle growers look for black truffles with the help of their dogs. There are many truffle orchards in the Luberon, but please note that these are private properties. We kindly ask you to respect the truffle growers, their expertise, and their profession.
Set out on the Luberon trails in winter
One of the most beautiful ways to discover the Luberon in winter is to put on your hiking boots and set off to explore the trails. The Petit Luberon and Grand Luberon mountains invite you to set out warmly dressed, as the temperatures can sometimes be low. It is not uncommon to see the mountain’s summit covered with snow.
One of the most beautiful hikes is to climb via Cabrières d’Aigues. From the car park at the bottom of the village, take Cime de Vière street, then follow the DFCI track that leads up towards the summit. After passing the water tank and skirting the coulet (a type of hill at the foot of the mountain), take the path that climbs up on the left. Follow the white and red GR markers; the climb is quite challenging, with a fairly steep slope, but the reward at the top is well worth the effort: the panoramic view is truly breathtaking!
From up there, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views, with South Luberon spread out before you to the south, the Sainte-Victoire mountain, and on a clear day, you might even glimpse the Étang de Berre and the Mediterranean. Behind you, to the north, stretches Apt, with the Mont Ventoux as a backdrop, often snow-capped in winter, and the Écrins mountain range in the far distance. To the west, the Mourre Nègre antenna, and to the east, the Alpes de Haute Provence, which are also snow-capped. Finally, you will see the entrance to the Verdon gorges to the south-east, with the Petit Bessillon as a landmark, easily recognisable by its volcano-like silhouette.
You can head back down the same path; the return is easy, offering breathtaking views over South Luberon! Make sure you bring enough water, a little food, and respect the ‘Luberon Attitude’.
Take care of yourself the Slow life way
The best way to truly experience the Luberon is to embrace a slow lifestyle. Slow down your pace and take the time to recharge in one of the region’s many cosy, welcoming establishments. They are often nestled in the heart of nature, in the countryside, within beautiful estates surrounded by vineyards and olive groves (such as Domaine La Parpaille), where you will be shielded from the hustle and bustle of the city, enjoying peace and privacy.
But the gîtes (self-catering cottages) and bed and breakfast rooms located in the villages are just as remarkable, as they are often true hidden gems whose beauty is concealed behind their façades. Take this opportunity to treat yourself to a session of yoga, sound massage, or perhaps enjoy the troglodyte spa at the Maison d’en bas des Seigneurs… Pure bliss!
Enjoy an indoor activity
Would you prefer an indoor activity? Don’t worry, we’ve got just what you need. There’s nothing better than a visit to a gallery and boutique to discover the crafts of South Luberon while staying warm! Step inside the vibrant studio of Juliet Schlunke. Deeply inspired by nature, Juliet creates ceramic pieces (figs, pomegranates, garlic bulbs) as well as paintings featuring woodland trees, orchards and Provençal vegetable gardens.
You can also visit Philippe Duriez, who is none other than her mentor. His studio Point Fusion in Cabrières d’Aigues will also take you on a journey through a variety of worlds, thanks to their exhibition of pottery and ceramic collections, which he shares in particular with his sister Sylvie.
Enjoying a short winter break in the Luberon is a real pleasure, and above all, it allows you to put your hectic life on hold. You’ll see, spending a week here feels like two, so book your stay!
Have a wonderful winter in South Luberon!